Prized for its firm and mild-tasting flesh, walleye is a freshwater fish native to North America and beloved throughout the Upper Midwest. In 2024, Lake Erie is estimated to hold over 90 million walleye thanks to nearly five decades of fishery management by the Ohio Department of Natural Resources (DNR), reversing decades of population decline caused by overfishing and pollution. Today, Port Clinton is known as the “walleye capital of the world” and hosts more than 700,000 guided charter trips each year.

In this episode, Capri Cafaro travels across northern Ohio to trace the legacy, culinary potential, and future of this iconic fish, from catching it on the water to creative preparations in the kitchen.

Catching Lake Erie Walleye with Captain Ross Robertson

Capri begins her walleye adventure on Lake Erie with Captain Ross Robertson, a professional angler who started fishing walleye at age 7 and now runs one of the region’s most sought-after guide services. Ross explains how Lake Erie’s shallow, fertile waters make it one of the best fisheries in the world, supporting more catchable game fish than any of the other Great Lakes.

Ross guides Capri through the process of locating schools of fish using sonar, casting lines, and reeling in up to six walleye, the daily limit. As they fish, he shares how he turned his childhood passion into a career and why he finds joy in introducing newcomers to the sport.

Cooking Walleye from Cheek to Fin on Kelleys Island

Capri and Ohio DNR wild game cooking specialist Ken Fry head to scenic Kelleys Island State Park for a shoreside cooking lesson. Ken demonstrates how to clean and break down the fish for maximum use, highlighting underutilized cuts like the cheeks and “walleye wings,” the meat near the fins.

Ken shows Capri how to blacken the filets over a cast iron grill, fry the wings to crispy perfection, and lightly cook the cheeks, which resemble scallops in texture. The dishes are served with flavorful accompaniments, including sriracha lime aioli and white cheddar grits with Creole sauce. The full-flavored meal reflects the DNR’s commitment to encouraging sustainable, whole-fish cooking.

Aquaponics and the Future of Freshwater Fish Farming

Capri visits Bowling Green State University to explore an innovative aquaponics system developed by Dr. Kevin Neves and graduate student Maria D’Amico. Designed to raise yellow perch, a cousin to the walleye, the system combines fish farming with hydroponic vegetable cultivation, using fish waste to fertilize plants while purifying the water.

The team walks Capri through their closed-loop operation, complete with perch tanks, crayfish cleaning crews, and tomato and lettuce beds. They explain the economic and cultural importance of perch in Ohio, noting that this aquaponic method uses 90% less water than traditional farming and produces no phosphorus runoff. Capri joins them in a blind taste test of perch from the farm versus wild-caught perch.

Larder’s Gefilte Fish: A Jewish Tradition Made Modern

In Cleveland, Capri meets chef and freshwater fish advocate Jeremy Umansky at his James Beard-nominated Larder Delicatessen. Jeremy showcases several preparations of gefilte fish made with walleye, drawing from his Jewish heritage while reimagining the dish for a new audience. Capri also samples Jeremy’s inventive “Gefilte Smashburger” and fried gefilte fish sticks. Through his cooking, Jeremy champions the rich diversity of Great Lakes fish and challenges diners to embrace local freshwater species as sustainable, flavorful alternatives to ocean fare.

Recipe: Walleye Gefilte Fish

Ingredients

• 3 lb ground walleye (reserve heads & bone cages if available)
• 4 medium onions, divided
• 1 celery rib, sliced
• 1 fennel bulb, sliced
• Fresh parsley & dill (plus more for garnish)
• 2 tbsp neutral oil
• ¾ cup matzo meal
• 3 large eggs
• 3 tbsp kosher salt
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tsp white or black pepper
• 4 carrots, sliced
• Prepared horseradish, for serving

Instructions

1. Make the Stock. Clean walleye heads and bones. Simmer in a pot with cold water, then drain and rinse. Return to pot with 1 sliced onion, celery, fennel, parsley, and dill. Cover with fresh water and simmer gently for 1 hour.
2. Prepare the Fish Mixture. Finely dice the remaining 3 onions. Sauté half in oil until soft; cool. In a large bowl, combine ground walleye (check for bones), both raw and sautéed onions, matzo meal, eggs, salt, sugar, pepper, and 6 tbsp cold water. Mix well until slightly sticky. Chill 30 minutes.
3. Form & Poach. Strain the fish stock and return to pot. Add sliced carrots. Shape fish mixture into oval balls using two spoons. Gently drop into the simmering stock. Poach for 10–15 minutes until cooked through (150°F internal temperature). Cook in batches if needed.
4. Finish & Serve. Taste and adjust broth with salt and sugar. Serve warm with carrots, herbs, and horseradish—or chill overnight and serve cold with aspic.