Across the world, olives are a symbol of longevity, tradition, and culture. In California, they have taken root as both a historical inheritance and a modern innovation. Introduced by Franciscan missionaries in the 18th century, olives became a fixture in the state’s agricultural landscape. But it is only in recent decades that California has emerged as a leader in high-quality olive oil production, blending centuries-old practices with cutting-edge techniques. In this episode, we follow the journey of the California olive, from its Mediterranean origins to its transformation into some of the freshest and most celebrated oils in the world. Along the way, we meet the people who carry forward this tradition and learn how a humble fruit helps tell the story of a region, a people, and a country.

History and Heritage in Olive Country

California’s olive legacy began with the missions, and still bears their fruit. At Mission San Francisco Solano in Sonoma, Capri meets olive oil historian Alexandra Kicenik Devarenne. Together they explore the story of how Franciscan monks brought olive trees from Spain and cultivated what would become the only American variety listed in the International Olive Council’s world catalog: the California Mission Olive. Capri and Alexandra reflect on the legacy of the missions and the ways agriculture was used to establish European control in early California. In the olive grove, they admire towering trees and sample brined mission olives, celebrating a variety that remains uniquely Californian.

From there, Capri travels to Corning, known as “Olive City.” At the Olive Pit, she meets Hannah Boeldt, whose family has been bringing travelers inside the world of California table olives since 1967. Capri samples stuffed queen olives and a lemon olive oil milkshake, learning how Corning grew into a center of canned olive production. Hannah explains how these flavors and traditions continue to support the region’s economy and keep California olives on the map.

Cultivating the Future at McEvoy Ranch

Late fall marks harvest season at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma, where Nan McEvoy’s dream of producing world-class olive oil continues today. Capri meets President Samantha Dorsey, who shares the story of how Nan brought 1,000 Italian olive seedlings to California in 1990. Today, McEvoy’s signature field blend includes Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino, Moraiolo, Maurino, Coratina, and Leccio del Corno, each harvested and ripened with precision for flavor balance.

Capri joins the team in the orchard and learns how to use an electric rake to gently shake olives from the trees. She follows the fruit from tarp to lug to bin, gaining insight into a harvest process rooted in sustainability. Samantha explains how McEvoy uses surface water only, avoids overdevelopment, and plants cover crops to protect the land. They talk about how the climate of Central California is perfect for growing olives, and how tradition and stewardship go hand in hand on this California ranch.

Turning Olives Into Liquid Gold

From fresh fruit to olio nuovo, California mills lead with precision and pride. In McEvoy Ranch’s milling room, known as the frantoio, Capri witnesses the full transformation of olives into oil. Samantha walks her through each step of the process, cleaning, crushing, malaxing, and decanting. Capri even hops on a forklift to help dump the day’s first batch into the cleaning machine.

Capri samples olio nuovo straight from the decanter. This bright green oil, available only for a few weeks each season, is a vivid expression of freshness and craft. Samantha and Capri taste side-by-side oils from different harvest years, including a sample of agrumato, a citrus-pressed oil if available. Samantha explains how freshness and purity define extra virgin olive oil, and how California producers are setting new standards for quality.

Greek Roots, American Kitchen

In every Greek olive dish lives a story passed down for millennia. In Sacramento, Capri visits chef Krystina Kalapothakos, a Greek American culinary educator who celebrates her family’s legacy through food. Together they prepare eliopitakia, mini pastries filled with chopped olives, scallions, herbs, and honey. As they roll and fill dough, Krystina reflects on the ancient role of olives in Greek society, from athletes anointing themselves in oil to the symbolism of olive wreaths worn by Olympic champions.

Krystina shares memories of growing up in a Greek kitchen and her pilgrimage to Crete, where she visited the world’s oldest living olive tree. Capri bites into the warm, savory-sweet pastry and listens as Krystina quotes a famous Greek writer: “If you take Greece apart, in the end, you will be left with an olive tree, a vineyard, and a boat.” The story comes full circle, honoring a fruit that connects continents, generations, and cultures.

Recipe: Eliopitakia (Mini olive pies)

Ingredients:

For the Dough:

• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup of orange juice

For the Filling:

• 1 cup pitted olives, finely chopped (Kalamata or green olives) Make sure to pat dry.
• 1/4 cup of finely chopped scallions or spring onions
• 1 tablespoon of honey
• 1 tablespoon fresh herbs (fennel or dill
• Black pepper to taste
• Optional: Sesame seeds
• Optional: You can add feta cheese to the mixture

Egg wash:

• 1 egg, room temperature
• 1 tablespoon of cool or room temperature water

Place the egg and water inside a small bowl and whisk until well combined. Set aside until ready to use over the mini pies.

Instructions:

1. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a mixing bowl. In a KitchenAid mixer, add the olive oil & orange juice and mix until crumbly. Mix the dough until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
2. Add the olives, scallions or spring onions, herbs, honey, and black pepper in the food processor.
3. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Roll out the chilled dough on a floured surface to about 1/8 inch thick. Cut into circles or squares (about 4 inches wide). Place a spoonful of the olive filling in the center of each piece. Fold the dough to create a half-moon shape and seal the edges by pressing with a fork.
4. Place the pastries on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush the tops with egg wash for a golden finish. Sprinkle sesame seeds over the top. Bake for approximately 28-30 minutes or until golden brown.
5. Allow to cool slightly before serving. Enjoy warm or at room temperature!

California’s olive industry began with imported cuttings and ancient practices. Today it represents the innovation, diversity, and resilience of American agriculture. With every bottle of extra virgin oil and every bite of a stuffed pastry, California’s olives carry forward a story that spans thousands of years and continues to evolve with every harvest.